We just had breakfast and we're about to set out to see the North Pacific Historic Fishing Village in Port Edward. The cannery village is a national historic site.
The weather is cloudy and rainy - getting us ready for Ketchikan. More later...
We 're back from the fishing village which was very interesting. It's actually a salmon cannery that has been preserved exactly as it was before it was abandoned in the 1960's. Many different people worked on the nets and in the processing plant. The net workers were very important because the nets were expensive and so vital to salmon fishing. The "net boss" was a person of high stature since he was in charge of the nets.
In the theater, there was a short play in which a woman played the parts of many different characters involved in the history of the cannery. In Ketchikan there is a salmon cannery, but it is not open to the public for tours. This village gave us some nice preparation for AK.
And so did the weather - rain, rain and more rain. And chilly - the temperature is only 52. I had on a t-shirt, sweatshirt, fleece and a rain jacket. Brrrr.
Tomorrow we'll get up at 4:00 AM in order to be in the Alaska Marine Ferry line by 5:15 - three hours before the ferry leaves at 8:15. The trip will take 8 hours, including the extra hour we get when we pass from Pacific Time to Alaska Time. Fortunately, we have a cabin in case we need a nap!
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Smithers to Prince Rupert
Odometer - 4311
This morning, the mountains were visible behind the bed and breakfast. Mist still clung to the peaks, but we were able to see the glaciers.
At the suggestion of one of the B&B owners, we stopped at Moricetown, just out of Smithers. Native Americans, also known as the First Nation, fish for salmon there. The Bulkley River is especially fierce. The fishermen attach themselves to the ledge or pier with a strong cable in case they slip. Over and over again, they plunge a long-poled net into the water. At first we thought they weren’t going to be successful. Then one fisherman held up his net in triumph - he had caught a king salmon! The audience applauded their approval. I was surprised that I couldn’t see any salmon in the water. Gates and I had visited a salmon run in Brewster while we lived on the Cape. The salmon were so plentiful, you could have scooped out a dozen. The air was filled with the squawking of gulls as they tried to get dinner. Here, the Bulkley River was much, much quieter.
About five miles back we saw a small brown bear feeding by the side of the road. I have to say, we’ve gotten all kinds of information about how to be safe around bears. Much of it is conflicting. Also there are different techniques for black and brown (grizzlies) bears. But the latest information we received sounded the most logical - don’t use bear bells and here’s why: the bears are so acclimated to humans that the sound of bear bells is like a dinner bell - it means humans (and maybe food...) are nearby. I was ready to buy some or carry a string of jingle bells in AK when we go hiking. My new technique will be to hike in groups, clap my hands and carry a stout stick.
Now we’re driving along the Skeena River, about 50 miles from Prince Rupert, our stop for the night. There are many fisherman fishing. We smelled smoke and saw that there were fires along the river bank. Maybe the fishermen are cooking up the fish right there instead of waiting. Or maybe they’re smoking the fish to preserve them? We’re on the look-out for sea lions which are supposed to be jumping out of the water.
This area is foggy and rainy - a good preparation for the rain of Ketchikan. I am excited about boarding the ferry, about stepping off into Alaska and about seeing our home for the first time.
This morning, the mountains were visible behind the bed and breakfast. Mist still clung to the peaks, but we were able to see the glaciers.
At the suggestion of one of the B&B owners, we stopped at Moricetown, just out of Smithers. Native Americans, also known as the First Nation, fish for salmon there. The Bulkley River is especially fierce. The fishermen attach themselves to the ledge or pier with a strong cable in case they slip. Over and over again, they plunge a long-poled net into the water. At first we thought they weren’t going to be successful. Then one fisherman held up his net in triumph - he had caught a king salmon! The audience applauded their approval. I was surprised that I couldn’t see any salmon in the water. Gates and I had visited a salmon run in Brewster while we lived on the Cape. The salmon were so plentiful, you could have scooped out a dozen. The air was filled with the squawking of gulls as they tried to get dinner. Here, the Bulkley River was much, much quieter.
About five miles back we saw a small brown bear feeding by the side of the road. I have to say, we’ve gotten all kinds of information about how to be safe around bears. Much of it is conflicting. Also there are different techniques for black and brown (grizzlies) bears. But the latest information we received sounded the most logical - don’t use bear bells and here’s why: the bears are so acclimated to humans that the sound of bear bells is like a dinner bell - it means humans (and maybe food...) are nearby. I was ready to buy some or carry a string of jingle bells in AK when we go hiking. My new technique will be to hike in groups, clap my hands and carry a stout stick.
Now we’re driving along the Skeena River, about 50 miles from Prince Rupert, our stop for the night. There are many fisherman fishing. We smelled smoke and saw that there were fires along the river bank. Maybe the fishermen are cooking up the fish right there instead of waiting. Or maybe they’re smoking the fish to preserve them? We’re on the look-out for sea lions which are supposed to be jumping out of the water.
This area is foggy and rainy - a good preparation for the rain of Ketchikan. I am excited about boarding the ferry, about stepping off into Alaska and about seeing our home for the first time.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Tire Problem #4
Odometer - 4063
Just when we were thinking that Prince George to Smithers is rather boring, and just when we were thinking that we might get to Smithers a little early, and not too long after we had a picnic lunch at a rest stop near a lake, we hear this somewhat familiar refrain: “Blub, blub, blub.”
We quickly recognized it as Flat #3, (or tire problem #4 if you count the spare tire bulge Robert picked up when he checked the spare many, many miles ago...).
By now Gates and Robert know the routine all too well. I got in on the action, too, by placing the orange warning triangle down the road to alert oncoming drivers that we were parked off on the way-too-small shoulder changing a tire. The good news is that it wasn’t raining, despite a very threatening sky. It was not hot. And the road, despite heavy trucks carrying huge logs to a nearby paper mill, was not very busy. The whole problem delayed us about an hour, and that’s including the time spent in Burns Lake at Tirecraft Auto Center buying a new spare and having it balanced.
A nice thing that happened this morning was that we met another Coast Guard family in the parking lot of the hotel. They had seen our Coast Guard license plate and came over to talk. They’re going to Juneau and were also headed for the ferry in Prince Rupert. It was fun to compare notes and talk about Alaska.
Here comes the rain as I sit here in the Tirecraft parking typing away and waiting for Robert. Our hotel tonight is a bed and breakfast which is supposed to have a view of a glacier. It’s the first bed and breakfast we’ll be staying in and I hope it’s as nice as the reviewers at Trip Advisor have said.
Last night we had dinner in a local restaurant, Carmel’s, which had good food and lots of it. Dinner also included salad and dessert. There was so much to eat that I immediately put a half to two thirds of my meal in a take-away container. Gates did had leftovers, too, and it was that which we enjoyed as our picnic lunch.
Just when we were thinking that Prince George to Smithers is rather boring, and just when we were thinking that we might get to Smithers a little early, and not too long after we had a picnic lunch at a rest stop near a lake, we hear this somewhat familiar refrain: “Blub, blub, blub.”
We quickly recognized it as Flat #3, (or tire problem #4 if you count the spare tire bulge Robert picked up when he checked the spare many, many miles ago...).
By now Gates and Robert know the routine all too well. I got in on the action, too, by placing the orange warning triangle down the road to alert oncoming drivers that we were parked off on the way-too-small shoulder changing a tire. The good news is that it wasn’t raining, despite a very threatening sky. It was not hot. And the road, despite heavy trucks carrying huge logs to a nearby paper mill, was not very busy. The whole problem delayed us about an hour, and that’s including the time spent in Burns Lake at Tirecraft Auto Center buying a new spare and having it balanced.
A nice thing that happened this morning was that we met another Coast Guard family in the parking lot of the hotel. They had seen our Coast Guard license plate and came over to talk. They’re going to Juneau and were also headed for the ferry in Prince Rupert. It was fun to compare notes and talk about Alaska.
Here comes the rain as I sit here in the Tirecraft parking typing away and waiting for Robert. Our hotel tonight is a bed and breakfast which is supposed to have a view of a glacier. It’s the first bed and breakfast we’ll be staying in and I hope it’s as nice as the reviewers at Trip Advisor have said.
Last night we had dinner in a local restaurant, Carmel’s, which had good food and lots of it. Dinner also included salad and dessert. There was so much to eat that I immediately put a half to two thirds of my meal in a take-away container. Gates did had leftovers, too, and it was that which we enjoyed as our picnic lunch.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Jasper to Prince George
Odometer - 3825
We really enjoyed our time in Jasper. For one, it was a lovely time to relax after over three weeks on the road. Secondly, the biking/hiking was great. They also had a scenic town square which was a relaxing place to gather after dinner. Nearby was Scoops with every kind of ice cream flavor from Smarties to KitKat (really...) I tried KitKat (Gates' favorite) and Praline and Cream. I think the latter was better.
Today we took Route 16/Yellowhead Highway west to Prince George. Most of the scenery was forested mountains with mist dripping over the peaks. It was very pretty. But the most exciting part was that we finally saw a bear! Gates spotted it up ahead crossing the highway. It went off to the side to feed and then disappeared. I was hoping to get closer to it for a better photo op, but no luck. I was a little worried about seeing male moose since there were numerous signs, including one run by solar panels (that meant to me that they were really serious about the warning) to beware of moose. I woulnd't mind seeing one off to the side, but I don't want to see one up close and personal...
By the way, I finally got a photo of the bear-proof trash cans. They open by tucking your hand underneath an opening and pushing in a lever. These are the only kind of trash containers found anywhere. In Jasper, the containers were numbered. I wondered if that was to keep track of which oines were emptied or to see which ones bears are attempting to open.
Prince George is known as the capital of the North. It's not particularly scenic but looks like a typical city. At this point, I have to say, with 4 more days until we're on the ferry - I'm ready to be in AK!
I just used the well-equipped fitness center in the hotel. They have treadmills with television sets that take iPod earphones. Pretty cool!
We really enjoyed our time in Jasper. For one, it was a lovely time to relax after over three weeks on the road. Secondly, the biking/hiking was great. They also had a scenic town square which was a relaxing place to gather after dinner. Nearby was Scoops with every kind of ice cream flavor from Smarties to KitKat (really...) I tried KitKat (Gates' favorite) and Praline and Cream. I think the latter was better.
Today we took Route 16/Yellowhead Highway west to Prince George. Most of the scenery was forested mountains with mist dripping over the peaks. It was very pretty. But the most exciting part was that we finally saw a bear! Gates spotted it up ahead crossing the highway. It went off to the side to feed and then disappeared. I was hoping to get closer to it for a better photo op, but no luck. I was a little worried about seeing male moose since there were numerous signs, including one run by solar panels (that meant to me that they were really serious about the warning) to beware of moose. I woulnd't mind seeing one off to the side, but I don't want to see one up close and personal...
By the way, I finally got a photo of the bear-proof trash cans. They open by tucking your hand underneath an opening and pushing in a lever. These are the only kind of trash containers found anywhere. In Jasper, the containers were numbered. I wondered if that was to keep track of which oines were emptied or to see which ones bears are attempting to open.
Prince George is known as the capital of the North. It's not particularly scenic but looks like a typical city. At this point, I have to say, with 4 more days until we're on the ferry - I'm ready to be in AK!
I just used the well-equipped fitness center in the hotel. They have treadmills with television sets that take iPod earphones. Pretty cool!
Saturday, July 26, 2008
More hiking/biking in Jasper
Today we drove out to Maligne Canyon, the place where the Maligne River plunges over 60 feet into a steep-walled gorge made of limestone. We saw waterfalls, rapids, a cave or two and got to jump on a suspension bridge. The hike meandered beside the river and took about 90 minutes. Just as we returned to the car, it started to rain! But then, when we got back to Jasper, the sun was out again, so we decided to take one last bike hike before we put the bikes back on top of the trailer in preparation for leaving tomorrow.
Biking along the "Discovery Trail," we discovered another trail along the railroad tracks. It went up and down small hills and then gradually rose to the crest of a hill overlooking the highway and the Athabasca River. A couple of times, I smelled an animal odor... We had forgotten to bring the bear spray, too. (ECF's!) By the way, apparently kids in Edmonton are using bear spray on people! Not good... Still, we enjoyed the view and had a great ride. But I was on the lookout as I really expected to see some bears. Maybe because on the way back from the canyon we saw five female moose along the side of the road feeding.
The weather in this area is unusual in that it's really chilly in the morning but then quickly warms up to hot in the sun. The price of food is also very expensive. There is a small grocery store which is limited and pricey. Entrees at most restaurants are in the $30-40 range.
Tomorrow we set off for Prince George - about 250 miles away.
Biking along the "Discovery Trail," we discovered another trail along the railroad tracks. It went up and down small hills and then gradually rose to the crest of a hill overlooking the highway and the Athabasca River. A couple of times, I smelled an animal odor... We had forgotten to bring the bear spray, too. (ECF's!) By the way, apparently kids in Edmonton are using bear spray on people! Not good... Still, we enjoyed the view and had a great ride. But I was on the lookout as I really expected to see some bears. Maybe because on the way back from the canyon we saw five female moose along the side of the road feeding.
The weather in this area is unusual in that it's really chilly in the morning but then quickly warms up to hot in the sun. The price of food is also very expensive. There is a small grocery store which is limited and pricey. Entrees at most restaurants are in the $30-40 range.
Tomorrow we set off for Prince George - about 250 miles away.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Biking in Jasper
After a great hot (most of our breakfasts have been continental, so today's was a wondrous treat...) breakfast, be set out to bike along one of the many biking trails in Jasper. Jasper is very bike-friendly, unlike some other towns we've been in. There are bike paths everywhere and bike stands. People are very respectful of bikers and gave us lots of room on the roads. Still, we chose to mountain bike thinking the path would be an easy trail through the woods. It was straight up! Much of the time I spent pushing the bike up the hill! Gates and Robert had more success riding their bikes. We kept ringing our bike bells because the presence of bears is very much a reality. The trick is not to surprise the bears. So we kept ringing and shouting as we biked and pushed. When we got to the top - it was amazing. The views were awesome. We were staring directly at about an 11,000 foot mountain. Fortunately the next leg of this bike-a-thon was downhill. We sped downwards and then chose to bike along the road to Patricia Lake were we had a picnic lunch. We felt safe eating there by the water because it was a picnic spot. But eating around bears is very dangerous. We've been told that you must keep food far away from you. If you're camping, you must never sleep in clothes you eat in because they can smell the food. It's a whole other way of thinking, that's for sure.
Speaking of bears, we actually bought bear spray! Maybe this was a ECF thing to do (East Coast Fools...), but the Parks Canada people in Banff recommended it and consequently it didn't seem like it was silly. They suggested each person have bear spray. We just bought one can. It looks like a giant can of mace. It also had a giant price - $35.00! On the other hand, that's a small price to pay for your life...
Speaking of bears, we actually bought bear spray! Maybe this was a ECF thing to do (East Coast Fools...), but the Parks Canada people in Banff recommended it and consequently it didn't seem like it was silly. They suggested each person have bear spray. We just bought one can. It looks like a giant can of mace. It also had a giant price - $35.00! On the other hand, that's a small price to pay for your life...
Off to Jasper
Odometer - 3622
We left Banff and set off for Lake Louise, which according to the visitor guide, has blue-green waters set against the stark backdrop of Victoria Glacier. Wow - it was even better than I thought. The water was turquoise and the sun and mists on the peaks and glaciers was breathtaking. It was 43 degrees, so we piled on the jeans and jackets. We saw a musician by the water’s edge playing a ten-foot long Swiss horn. People were also renting canoes and kayaks to explore the lake.
After Lake Louise, we turned onto the Icefields Parkway, which National Geographic describes as one of the ten most spectacular drives. Up the road, we got out again to see Crowfoot Glacier. The bottom toe has melted, but the upper two toes are still apparent. Most of the peaks are greater than 10,000 feet. It’s a sunny day, thank goodness, because the clouds and shadows off the peaks are amazing. The rivers and lakes are all turquoise, apparently because the water picks up the powder from the rocks and this causes the blue-green color.
We spotted a stream meandering along the highway so we stopped, hiked down and stuck in our feet, wiggling our toes in the rushing water. It was freezing - I’d say about 40 degrees.
Later - We just finished hiking up to the Columbia Icefield glacier. We parked in one spot and thought we could hike in, but the directions said that if the bridge was out - water rushing over the bridge - you couldn’t cross to the glacier. So, we drove to a different spot and hiked in from there. It was incredibly, steep, windy and chilly. I’ve never been to Tibet, but that is what it felt like. What I really wanted was a yak ride to the top... Once we got there, we weren’t allowed to actually stand on the glacier because of the danger of falling into a weakened crevasse. All along the road up were plaques every so often which marked where the glacier was in 1948, 1982f and so on. The glacier has melted considerably. A sign at the top asked people to consider what they could do to decrease their environmental impact by a “tonne.” Something to definitely put into action...
We left Banff and set off for Lake Louise, which according to the visitor guide, has blue-green waters set against the stark backdrop of Victoria Glacier. Wow - it was even better than I thought. The water was turquoise and the sun and mists on the peaks and glaciers was breathtaking. It was 43 degrees, so we piled on the jeans and jackets. We saw a musician by the water’s edge playing a ten-foot long Swiss horn. People were also renting canoes and kayaks to explore the lake.
After Lake Louise, we turned onto the Icefields Parkway, which National Geographic describes as one of the ten most spectacular drives. Up the road, we got out again to see Crowfoot Glacier. The bottom toe has melted, but the upper two toes are still apparent. Most of the peaks are greater than 10,000 feet. It’s a sunny day, thank goodness, because the clouds and shadows off the peaks are amazing. The rivers and lakes are all turquoise, apparently because the water picks up the powder from the rocks and this causes the blue-green color.
We spotted a stream meandering along the highway so we stopped, hiked down and stuck in our feet, wiggling our toes in the rushing water. It was freezing - I’d say about 40 degrees.
Later - We just finished hiking up to the Columbia Icefield glacier. We parked in one spot and thought we could hike in, but the directions said that if the bridge was out - water rushing over the bridge - you couldn’t cross to the glacier. So, we drove to a different spot and hiked in from there. It was incredibly, steep, windy and chilly. I’ve never been to Tibet, but that is what it felt like. What I really wanted was a yak ride to the top... Once we got there, we weren’t allowed to actually stand on the glacier because of the danger of falling into a weakened crevasse. All along the road up were plaques every so often which marked where the glacier was in 1948, 1982f and so on. The glacier has melted considerably. A sign at the top asked people to consider what they could do to decrease their environmental impact by a “tonne.” Something to definitely put into action...
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