Cape Cod to Ketchikan, AK

Deer Mountain HIke

2008-08-09T20:34:00.000-07:00

This week I saw an ad for a hike to Deer Mountain sponsored by the Ketchikan Recreaction Center. I signed us up, and we went to the trailhead to meet the group at 10:00 this morning. We were excited about going up one of the mountains in Ketchikan with a group so we didn't have to worry about bears.

Speaking again of bears - people here regard them as a usual occurance. It's just no big deal. I'm still wary and squeamish of them because I haven't had a bear encounter. Maybe after I do, I'll be more matter-of-fact. But until then, I'm sticking to groups! (In fact, we met one of our neighbors the other night and he asked if we had seen the bear walking down the road last night... We're not in our house yet, so we hadn't - but once we are, you can be sure I'll have my eye out for such a sight.)

We ended up hiking to the first summit which took about 90 minutes and went up about 1200 ft. The morning was misty and chilly - in the 50's - so we wore raincoats. Even though it didn't rain, there was an intermittent occasional drizzle once we got up high because of the mist. The path was lined with palm-sized stones, boardwalk and staircases. Staircases are a fact of life in Ketchikan as some of the streets are actually staircases because of their position on the cliffs. (In fact, I passed a street today in town that was steps - no pavement at all!)

The whole hike took about 2 1/2 hours - just long enough. No bears and not summit view because of the mist, but the view along the trail was awesome.

Rotary Beach, Ketchikan

2008-08-05T16:58:00.001-07:00

The locals say that there was only 3 days of sun in July! And so far in August, there has been nothing but sun. The weather has been just gorgeous - no clouds and in the 60's. The sun is much warmer than that, but in the shade it's cool and lovely.

Gates and I explored the other end of the island yesterday and also spent some time at Rotary Beach. The water is crystal clear with mountains in the distance. Rocks and driftwood dot the beach, and salmon berry bushes (which you can eat) grow all along the shoreline.

A different sound that's in the air - the mosquito whine of the many, many float planes that are taking tourists on tours. Standing by the dock this afternoon, I tried to get a photo of one coming in for a landing. In the several minutes I tried to capture it, four to five planes came in for a landing. It's fun to see them take off and land in the middle of the channel.

Ward Lake

2008-08-03T20:44:00.000-07:00

Another sunny day in Ketchikan! YAY! Did we bring the sun???

After church, we set off for Ward Lake. We hiked the Nature Trail which winds around the lake. There were beautiful views as well as interpretive signs to give us information about the Tongass National Forest. It was incredibly gorgeous!

More later...

We're here!

2008-08-01T22:10:00.000-07:00

After driving more than 4500 miles, we've arrived! We got into Ketchikan yesterday at 1:30. We were in the dining room of the cafeteria on the ferry when I noticed we were approaching a town. I asked someone which town it was, and they said Ketchikan! I thought it would be another hour before we docked - but it was really less than 30 minutes. We had a great chance to see numerous eagles roosting high in the pine trees as we maneuvered towards the pier. Referring to the white heads of the bald eagles, one woman said, "Look for the golf balls in the trees." Sure enough, we saw lots of golf balls! We also saw a young eagle which did not have the white head. Instead, it looked a lot like an osprey or hawk with its brown speckled feathers. I guess people get used to seeing them, but I can't imagine not feeling WOW - there's a bald eagle...

Ketchikan gets a lot of rain, but we arrived in the sun. Today was also sunny - yay! We're staying at a hotel near the water because they are painting the house we're renting. It's nice to have a chance to make calls and set up services like the phone, TV and Internet before our household goods are delivered.

Tomorrow is a blueberry festival in town. We plan to get on our bikes and explore.

Many, many thanks to all of you who followed us with your thoughts, prayers and notes as we traveled. I really felt your presence. It meant so much to have your company.

Stay tuned as I will periodically post news.

XOXOX

On the ferry!

2008-08-01T12:17:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 4534

The alarm jangled us awake this morning at 4:00 AM so we could be at the ferry terminal by 5:00. It was still dark and cloudy when we got in line for the ferry. First they measured the van and then we went into the terminal to get our tickets. Back in the van, we got in another line to go through customs. Then we sat and waited and waited. Soon the cars and trucks came off the ferry, and they loaded on the tractor-trailer trailers one by one. Soon it was our turn to drive on. We were directed to take whatever we needed out of the van because once the ferry is underway, we could not access our car unescorted. To prevent this, the doors to the auto area have keys pads near the handles.

The ferry is a similar size to the Cape May-Lewes ferry we used to take to DC, except that it’s also like a cruise ship in that there are cabins, a small theater, a cafeteria (some ferries have dining rooms), a bar and a gift shop. Several seated viewing areas are on different decks. There are regular seats and reclining seats as well as tables and chairs.

I can say that the coffee and scones are delicious! Ironically, the scones were the same ones we had in Jasper at the hotel’s breakfast buffet. (And we thought they made them specially there...)

After a rainy and chilly day yesterday, the sun is shining and it is a little warmer. The views are absolutely incredible. I just want to keep taking pictures of the clouds and mountains above the water.

We have a four berth cabin which is about the size of a hotel room. There are two bottom bunks and two upper ones, a table and two chairs. The bathroom also has a shower. There are only a few four-berth cabins, so ours is in the front of the ferry with an expansive forward view out two large windows. The thick shades fold down for napping or can be secured up with a strap that snaps.

Tonight we’ll be in another hotel in Ketchikan. The original plan was to go directly to the house we’re renting, but it’s being painted, so we’ll probably spend 2-3 nights in a hotel. Still, it will be wonderful to be in the town that will soon be home. Tomorrow when Robert starts work, I hope he can find out when our household goods can be delivered. It won’t truly be home until we’re surrounded by our stuff...

Prince Rupert and Port Edward

2008-07-30T09:39:00.000-07:00

We just had breakfast and we're about to set out to see the North Pacific Historic Fishing Village in Port Edward. The cannery village is a national historic site.

The weather is cloudy and rainy - getting us ready for Ketchikan. More later...

We 're back from the fishing village which was very interesting. It's actually a salmon cannery that has been preserved exactly as it was before it was abandoned in the 1960's. Many different people worked on the nets and in the processing plant. The net workers were very important because the nets were expensive and so vital to salmon fishing. The "net boss" was a person of high stature since he was in charge of the nets.

In the theater, there was a short play in which a woman played the parts of many different characters involved in the history of the cannery. In Ketchikan there is a salmon cannery, but it is not open to the public for tours. This village gave us some nice preparation for AK.

And so did the weather - rain, rain and more rain. And chilly - the temperature is only 52. I had on a t-shirt, sweatshirt, fleece and a rain jacket. Brrrr.

Tomorrow we'll get up at 4:00 AM in order to be in the Alaska Marine Ferry line by 5:15 - three hours before the ferry leaves at 8:15. The trip will take 8 hours, including the extra hour we get when we pass from Pacific Time to Alaska Time. Fortunately, we have a cabin in case we need a nap!

Smithers to Prince Rupert

2008-07-29T16:15:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 4311

This morning, the mountains were visible behind the bed and breakfast. Mist still clung to the peaks, but we were able to see the glaciers.

At the suggestion of one of the B&B owners, we stopped at Moricetown, just out of Smithers. Native Americans, also known as the First Nation, fish for salmon there. The Bulkley River is especially fierce. The fishermen attach themselves to the ledge or pier with a strong cable in case they slip. Over and over again, they plunge a long-poled net into the water. At first we thought they weren’t going to be successful. Then one fisherman held up his net in triumph - he had caught a king salmon! The audience applauded their approval. I was surprised that I couldn’t see any salmon in the water. Gates and I had visited a salmon run in Brewster while we lived on the Cape. The salmon were so plentiful, you could have scooped out a dozen. The air was filled with the squawking of gulls as they tried to get dinner. Here, the Bulkley River was much, much quieter.

About five miles back we saw a small brown bear feeding by the side of the road. I have to say, we’ve gotten all kinds of information about how to be safe around bears. Much of it is conflicting. Also there are different techniques for black and brown (grizzlies) bears. But the latest information we received sounded the most logical - don’t use bear bells and here’s why: the bears are so acclimated to humans that the sound of bear bells is like a dinner bell - it means humans (and maybe food...) are nearby. I was ready to buy some or carry a string of jingle bells in AK when we go hiking. My new technique will be to hike in groups, clap my hands and carry a stout stick.

Now we’re driving along the Skeena River, about 50 miles from Prince Rupert, our stop for the night. There are many fisherman fishing. We smelled smoke and saw that there were fires along the river bank. Maybe the fishermen are cooking up the fish right there instead of waiting. Or maybe they’re smoking the fish to preserve them? We’re on the look-out for sea lions which are supposed to be jumping out of the water.

This area is foggy and rainy - a good preparation for the rain of Ketchikan. I am excited about boarding the ferry, about stepping off into Alaska and about seeing our home for the first time.

Tire Problem #4

2008-07-28T14:05:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 4063

Just when we were thinking that Prince George to Smithers is rather boring, and just when we were thinking that we might get to Smithers a little early, and not too long after we had a picnic lunch at a rest stop near a lake, we hear this somewhat familiar refrain: “Blub, blub, blub.”

We quickly recognized it as Flat #3, (or tire problem #4 if you count the spare tire bulge Robert picked up when he checked the spare many, many miles ago...).

By now Gates and Robert know the routine all too well. I got in on the action, too, by placing the orange warning triangle down the road to alert oncoming drivers that we were parked off on the way-too-small shoulder changing a tire. The good news is that it wasn’t raining, despite a very threatening sky. It was not hot. And the road, despite heavy trucks carrying huge logs to a nearby paper mill, was not very busy. The whole problem delayed us about an hour, and that’s including the time spent in Burns Lake at Tirecraft Auto Center buying a new spare and having it balanced.

A nice thing that happened this morning was that we met another Coast Guard family in the parking lot of the hotel. They had seen our Coast Guard license plate and came over to talk. They’re going to Juneau and were also headed for the ferry in Prince Rupert. It was fun to compare notes and talk about Alaska.

Here comes the rain as I sit here in the Tirecraft parking typing away and waiting for Robert. Our hotel tonight is a bed and breakfast which is supposed to have a view of a glacier. It’s the first bed and breakfast we’ll be staying in and I hope it’s as nice as the reviewers at Trip Advisor have said.

Last night we had dinner in a local restaurant, Carmel’s, which had good food and lots of it. Dinner also included salad and dessert. There was so much to eat that I immediately put a half to two thirds of my meal in a take-away container. Gates did had leftovers, too, and it was that which we enjoyed as our picnic lunch.

Jasper to Prince George

2008-07-27T16:29:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 3825

We really enjoyed our time in Jasper. For one, it was a lovely time to relax after over three weeks on the road. Secondly, the biking/hiking was great. They also had a scenic town square which was a relaxing place to gather after dinner. Nearby was Scoops with every kind of ice cream flavor from Smarties to KitKat (really...) I tried KitKat (Gates' favorite) and Praline and Cream. I think the latter was better.

Today we took Route 16/Yellowhead Highway west to Prince George. Most of the scenery was forested mountains with mist dripping over the peaks. It was very pretty. But the most exciting part was that we finally saw a bear! Gates spotted it up ahead crossing the highway. It went off to the side to feed and then disappeared. I was hoping to get closer to it for a better photo op, but no luck. I was a little worried about seeing male moose since there were numerous signs, including one run by solar panels (that meant to me that they were really serious about the warning) to beware of moose. I woulnd't mind seeing one off to the side, but I don't want to see one up close and personal...

By the way, I finally got a photo of the bear-proof trash cans. They open by tucking your hand underneath an opening and pushing in a lever. These are the only kind of trash containers found anywhere. In Jasper, the containers were numbered. I wondered if that was to keep track of which oines were emptied or to see which ones bears are attempting to open.

Prince George is known as the capital of the North. It's not particularly scenic but looks like a typical city. At this point, I have to say, with 4 more days until we're on the ferry - I'm ready to be in AK!

I just used the well-equipped fitness center in the hotel. They have treadmills with television sets that take iPod earphones. Pretty cool!

More hiking/biking in Jasper

2008-07-26T14:50:00.000-07:00

Today we drove out to Maligne Canyon, the place where the Maligne River plunges over 60 feet into a steep-walled gorge made of limestone. We saw waterfalls, rapids, a cave or two and got to jump on a suspension bridge. The hike meandered beside the river and took about 90 minutes. Just as we returned to the car, it started to rain! But then, when we got back to Jasper, the sun was out again, so we decided to take one last bike hike before we put the bikes back on top of the trailer in preparation for leaving tomorrow.

Biking along the "Discovery Trail," we discovered another trail along the railroad tracks. It went up and down small hills and then gradually rose to the crest of a hill overlooking the highway and the Athabasca River. A couple of times, I smelled an animal odor... We had forgotten to bring the bear spray, too. (ECF's!) By the way, apparently kids in Edmonton are using bear spray on people! Not good... Still, we enjoyed the view and had a great ride. But I was on the lookout as I really expected to see some bears. Maybe because on the way back from the canyon we saw five female moose along the side of the road feeding.

The weather in this area is unusual in that it's really chilly in the morning but then quickly warms up to hot in the sun. The price of food is also very expensive. There is a small grocery store which is limited and pricey. Entrees at most restaurants are in the $30-40 range.

Tomorrow we set off for Prince George - about 250 miles away.

Biking in Jasper

2008-07-25T15:47:00.000-07:00

After a great hot (most of our breakfasts have been continental, so today's was a wondrous treat...) breakfast, be set out to bike along one of the many biking trails in Jasper. Jasper is very bike-friendly, unlike some other towns we've been in. There are bike paths everywhere and bike stands. People are very respectful of bikers and gave us lots of room on the roads. Still, we chose to mountain bike thinking the path would be an easy trail through the woods. It was straight up! Much of the time I spent pushing the bike up the hill! Gates and Robert had more success riding their bikes. We kept ringing our bike bells because the presence of bears is very much a reality. The trick is not to surprise the bears. So we kept ringing and shouting as we biked and pushed. When we got to the top - it was amazing. The views were awesome. We were staring directly at about an 11,000 foot mountain. Fortunately the next leg of this bike-a-thon was downhill. We sped downwards and then chose to bike along the road to Patricia Lake were we had a picnic lunch. We felt safe eating there by the water because it was a picnic spot. But eating around bears is very dangerous. We've been told that you must keep food far away from you. If you're camping, you must never sleep in clothes you eat in because they can smell the food. It's a whole other way of thinking, that's for sure.

Speaking of bears, we actually bought bear spray! Maybe this was a ECF thing to do (East Coast Fools...), but the Parks Canada people in Banff recommended it and consequently it didn't seem like it was silly. They suggested each person have bear spray. We just bought one can. It looks like a giant can of mace. It also had a giant price - $35.00! On the other hand, that's a small price to pay for your life...

Off to Jasper

2008-07-25T15:44:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 3622

We left Banff and set off for Lake Louise, which according to the visitor guide, has blue-green waters set against the stark backdrop of Victoria Glacier. Wow - it was even better than I thought. The water was turquoise and the sun and mists on the peaks and glaciers was breathtaking. It was 43 degrees, so we piled on the jeans and jackets. We saw a musician by the water’s edge playing a ten-foot long Swiss horn. People were also renting canoes and kayaks to explore the lake.

After Lake Louise, we turned onto the Icefields Parkway, which National Geographic describes as one of the ten most spectacular drives. Up the road, we got out again to see Crowfoot Glacier. The bottom toe has melted, but the upper two toes are still apparent. Most of the peaks are greater than 10,000 feet. It’s a sunny day, thank goodness, because the clouds and shadows off the peaks are amazing. The rivers and lakes are all turquoise, apparently because the water picks up the powder from the rocks and this causes the blue-green color.

We spotted a stream meandering along the highway so we stopped, hiked down and stuck in our feet, wiggling our toes in the rushing water. It was freezing - I’d say about 40 degrees.

Later - We just finished hiking up to the Columbia Icefield glacier. We parked in one spot and thought we could hike in, but the directions said that if the bridge was out - water rushing over the bridge - you couldn’t cross to the glacier. So, we drove to a different spot and hiked in from there. It was incredibly, steep, windy and chilly. I’ve never been to Tibet, but that is what it felt like. What I really wanted was a yak ride to the top... Once we got there, we weren’t allowed to actually stand on the glacier because of the danger of falling into a weakened crevasse. All along the road up were plaques every so often which marked where the glacier was in 1948, 1982f and so on. The glacier has melted considerably. A sign at the top asked people to consider what they could do to decrease their environmental impact by a “tonne.” Something to definitely put into action...

Hiking in Banff

2008-07-23T20:12:00.001-07:00

We're here in Banff for the second day, so no odometer reading. We really feel like we're in Europe. Banff is an very international city with all kinds of accents flowing around us. We decided to take a hike up Tunnel Mt. this morning. This hike was supposed to be short - about 2 hours with an elevation of 700 feet. I found it VERY strenuous. The path was very steep, but the views were worth any kind of hike necessary. Periodically, there were overlooks with the valley far, far below us.

We met a teacher and her student at the visitors' center and decided to hike together. That was so enriching. She was from Edmonton and had lots of information to share. Her student was also very interesting to interact with as he was deaf and communicated with sign language. Despite the disability, we all communicated well.

After lunch we took a second hike which was really a stroll along the Bow River to the falls. The scenery was really breathtaking. The mountains surge up all around and the water is blue/green and very clean - just like in Bermuda. I don't think I've seen anything as beautiful as these mountains.

I thought I was in shape, but those hikes really tired me out! I'm in bed typing and ready to hit the hay... Goodnight!

Calgary to Banff

2008-07-22T19:50:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 3400

We’re on our way from Lethbridge through Calgary to Banff - a little over 200 miles. Brrrrr - it’s only in the low 20’s here - centigrade that is. Translated, that’s the high 60’s, quite a difference from the boiling 90’s of Wyoming and Montana. Petrol, (aka gas) is only $1.34 a liter, but translated, that’s almost $5.00 a gallon!

The best sight this morning - and it brought a lump to my throat - was to see Old Glory flying above a shopping center in Lethbridge. It’s a powerful thing to see our flag flying in a foreign country.

The road to Calgary is filled with farms and fields of yellow flowers which are canola. This is later harvested and processed into canola oil. Along with temperatures being in centigrade and gas in liters, the mileage is kilometers. We’re getting good in converting - we just minus the km by a third. We also passed the ski jump from when the Olympics were in Calgary.

Our timing was just right - we were able to catch sight of about five solar cars speeding toward Calgary, including the University of Minnesota’s and University of Calgary’s entries. MIT had one, too, but we didn’t see it.

Now we’re on Route 1, the trans-Canada highway which makes its way through the Canadian Rockies. The views are truly incredible. The clouds cling to the mountains which stretch as far as we can see into the sky. We should be in Banff in about an hour.

2008-07-22T05:55:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 3128

We’re at the border of Montana and Alberta, Canada waiting to get through the border. It’s still hot here - 87 degrees. This morning as we drove through Montana, we saw incredible views, once again. The scenery ranged from rough, tall cliffs of granite to pastures of grazing cows.

We have about about 60 miles to Lethbrdige, AB where we’ll spend the night. The hotel has another water park which we’re all looking forward to jumping in. This morning while driving, we amused ourselves with a crossword puzzle, numerous games of two-handed bridge (this trip was meant to be a crazy 8 fest, but instead it’s been a bridge-fest...), and finally an hour-long comedy routine by our bus driver, Robert.

Breakfast this morning was exceptional at the Best Western in Helena. Hot and cold food and lots of fresh fruit. I may have mentioned before that many of these hotels are franchises so that the quality varies. Last night’s hotel was the nicest we’ve stayed in. It was nice and big with extra comfortable beds.

We just passed through customs and now we’re heading north on Route 4.

Later - we checked in and checked out the water park which looks great. Lots of things to do for later. The restaurant at the hotel was so-so, so we headed out and guess what we found? A Boston Pizza! (See, no matter where we go, Boston comes, too!)

2008-07-20T19:18:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 2498

We’ve been driving since around 9:30 after a quick stop at Blondie’s IGA to refill our lunch food stocks. We’ve found it easy and healthful to eat veggies, fruit, cheese, crackers and juice for lunch. Last night Gates and Robert had a blast at the go-cart track. I missed it! By the time I was done with the blog and photos, they were back to the hotel.

We’re about five hours into our six hour or so travel for today. We caught sight of the snow-capped Bighorn Mts. in the distance. The views are spectacular once more with mountains, cattle and proghorn sheep along side the road. Soon we’ll be at Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. That’s about 15 miles from our hotel for the night, so we’ll be able to spend some time there before jumping on the 140 foot water slide into the pool at the hotel.

Later - Little Bighorn was hot, dry, but very moving. One of the guides gave a battlefield talk which explained Custer’s Last Stand and how he and his men had no chance. After attacking the Indians, they were surprised by 2,000 warriors attempting to protect women and children. The battlefield is part of the very large Crow Indian Reservation and the woman giving the presentation was Crow. She was a talented storyteller, using her hands almost in a ballet-like motion to describe the events leading up to and culminating in the battle.

The hotel last night was our first real no-tell motel, in my opinion. Robert didn’t think it was that bad. We attempted to have diner at the “family” restaurant next door. The grub there consisted of dried up serving containers behind clear, plastic shields. Two weary travelers were bent over their ribs. We asked them how it was. They said, “Go to Pizza Hut.” So we did. That was a little better in that the dinner fare was very tasty but they only had two waiters manning the whole restaurant. Fortunately we entered before a very large family. Afterwards we popped the laundry in the washing machine before heading for the pool and water slide which was a lot of fun.

Deadwood, SD and the Mickelson Bike Trail

2008-07-18T16:42:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 2434 I think...

Today is the last day for awhile of short driving distances. The next 4-5 days will be heavy driving days as we travel through South Dakota and Montana on our way to Canada. It's very hard for me to think that in less than two weeks, we'll be in Alaska.

This morning we drove to Deadwood, SD, a national historic town. I thought it might be a tourist trap, but actually it was very well done. We drove through the town which included many restored historic buildings. Our hotel, Deadwood Gulch, (the whole town is located in a gulch - right on the canyon floor...) was out of town a bit but right beside the George Mickelson bicycle path, exactly what we were looking for. It is a 109 mile path from Deadwood to Edgewood. Coincidentally, the NYT had an article about it right before we left Cape Cod.

Gates and Robert took the bikes off the top of the trailer (about an hour job...) and then we set off down the trail. It winds through forests and along a stream with beautiful scenery all around. The sun was beating down on us - we figured out that the sun is more intense here because of the elevation - so despite the cool breeze, it was still quite warm. At one point we took a break to plunge out toes into the icy water - boy, did that feel good! We also took a well-needed break for ice cream at a place called the Chunky Chipmunk. It was a chocolate shop but fortunately, it had ice cream. And some of the best I've ever tasted. We struck up a conversation with a couple also eating ice cream and discovered the man works for Blue Bunny, the makers of the ice cream.

Across the street there is a go-cart race track, so Gates and Robert are over there while I write the blog. It's early to bed tonight so that we can get up early for Hardin, MT tomorrow. Before we arrive there we'll try to see Little Big Horn National Monument.

Custer State Park and Mt. Rushmore

2008-07-17T18:45:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 2373

We were up by six this morning and on the road by 7:30. We headed for Custer State Park, the 2nd largest state park in the country. They have a Wildlife Loop Road which we took in order to catch sight of buffalo. We were scanning the hills with binocs while Robert drove, trying to see some. Just as we thought we were going to be disappointed, we rounded a turn and there was a whole herd of them! Some were so close we could have touched them. They even took up the road so no one could go anywhere. It was fascinating to see huge aniumals in the wild so close.

After Custer, we drove the Iron Mt. Road to Mt. Rushmore. There were more hairpin turns than I could count but the road had spectacular views. I was impressed by the whole prsentation at Mt. Rushmore. It's a beautful park and well laid out. The statues are amazing. They first thought of sculpting them in order to bring tourists to SD. When they contacted the artist, Gutzon Borglum, he suggesting changing from western heroes like Bill Cody to presidents. He wanted Rushmore to reflect the glory and heritage of the USA. He was right!

I have to say I've experienced quite a variety of beds this trip. The best was a Holiday Inn in Nebraska. The worst was a tie between a Comfort Inn in Illinois and a Best Western in SD. But tonight we're also in a Best Western and this bed looks very comfortable. I didn't realize that a lot of these hotels are franchises so the quality, despite the name, varies.

As far as coffee goes, I've had some of the worst I've ever tasted. None of it is as good as good ol' Dunkins. No wonder America runs on it! Two mornings ago, I had what was the lightest brown watery coffee I've ever seen - and I like coffee weak. But this was ridiculous! Ugh.

We've also had quite a variety of meals. Some hotel restaurants are horrid. Some local cafes are great. Some (like last night in Custer) are not so hot. Tonight's meal in the Best Western was delicious - especially the raspberry bread pudding. So there's no way to predict. One thing that's for sure is that you have to be flexible. That's the name of the game! It could take us 1 hour or 7 to get to where we need to go each day...

Scottsbluff, NE, Fort Laramie, WY and Jewel Cave, SD

2008-07-16T19:44:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 2332 miles

First - thank you so much to those of you who have left comments. I love hearing from you! Thank you, too, to my cousin, Sara, for leaving the poem. I loved it!

Yesterday we hiked to the top of Scottsbluff Monument - 1.8 miles each way. It was a magnificent hike and a little strenuous. Even though we're not in the desert, it sure feels like it. It was interesting to see all the different flowers, cactus and scrubby pine. The view was incredible - you could see for miles and miles. Scottsbluff is significant because the Oregon Trail traveled through this area. The bluff has been wearing away significantly over the years. Years and years ago, the whole area was the same height as Scottsbluff.

Next we drove 50 miles to Wyoming and Fort Laramie. The temperature was 101 by the van's thermometer when we concluded our tour. The tour guide, a local high school student in costume (wool pants, and heavy jacket - he must have been roasting...) was excellent. He took the us around to see the bunk houses, guard houses and officers' quarters.

Last night, we stayed in Lusk, Wyoming. A little, tiny dot on the map. There are 140 trains that go through Lusk every day. 70 go through empty and 70 go through full of coal in the opposite way. Each one is 120 cars and a mile long. Each car weighs tons and tons. They are taking coal from the Gillette mine nearby which has been much busier because of the energy crisis. The Union Pacific railroad is one of the biggest employers in this region.

This was the friendliest town/hotel I’ve ever visited. We had a cowboy dinner at the Outpost Cafe and three locals came up to talk to us. In fact, Gates and I went back to the hotel for a swim and left Robert deep in conversation with a local couple. One family heard us talking about Mt. Rushmore and stopped by to suggest we see it at night when it’s lit up. I have an inkling that this is what Alaska is going to be like and I like that!

We drove north and then east into South Dakota to see Jewel Cave. We had tried to make reservations but the line was busy, busy, busy. Fortunately when we got there, we were able to get on the next tour and only had to wait an hour.

Jewel Cave is the second largest cave in the world. We took an elevator to down 374 feet to where the tour began. We walked along cement paths and down steel steps as we toured the cave. The ranger said that calculations based on the wind that flows through the cave indicate that only about 5% of the cave has been explored. It was a cool 49 degrees - a real relief from the 95 outside.

This afternoon we drove to Custer, SD to see the Crazy Horse Memorial. Then it was onto the hotel, dinner, pool and sleep. It’s amazing how the heat just saps your energy...

Kearney, Nebraska to Scottsbluff, Nebraska

2008-07-14T17:07:00.000-07:00

Odometer at start-up - 1831

Kearney was a big hit with Gates. The hotel, it turned out, had a “water park” - two winding slides to a frothy pool. It was a lot of fun for all of us and a big treat at the end of a hot day. I’m still surprised by the heat here - in was in the 90’s even after we had dinner. The drive took much longer than we figured, so there was no time to take in some of the attractions like Fort Kearney, a stop on the Oregon Trail.

This morning we were up and on the road by 8:15. We figured out that that’s the best way to do it - get up and out early so that by noon a big chunk of the driving has been accomplished. Today was our first venture off the major highways. We’re taking Route 26 northwest to Scottsbluff, the site of Scotts Bluff National Monument and Chimney Rock, a huge rock formation. Along the way, we stopped at Ash Hollow State Park where we saw a sod house with cactus growing on the roof. Rising above the park was Windlass Hill, a treacherous descent along the Oregon Trail.

We all feel we deserve the moniker ECF for East Coast Fools. We spied a turn-off for Lake McConaughy in the distance. Thinking it would be a fine place for a shady picnic (and that it would be right around the bend) we hung a right and roared down the road. And then kept on driving and driving. We finally pulled up at a trailer park, swung around and parked under a tree. The lake was no where to be seen and it was probably miles away.

Another interesting fact is that the hotels are all 1-2 stories with no elevators. On the back of the hotel doors, there is information on what to do in case of a tornado. At the rest stops, the picnic shelters are concrete and are partially enclosed by brick walls. I think they may also act as shelters in case of tornadoes.

The view out the window is incredible - huge rolling fields with wind/water pumps and lots of cattle. Everything is hot and sun baked. We had to wait for construction and it was boiling with the windows open. Robert said we had the chance to experience our own Oregon Trail struggles sitting there in the baking heat.

Iowa to Kearney, Nebraska

2008-07-13T17:05:00.000-07:00

Odometer - 1485 miles

We had a grand reunion with Paula yesterday afternoon as well as a great tour of Iowa State University where she teaches. Then it was off to the food store to restock our lunch supplies (small cans of barbecued beans, tuna cups, carrots, celery, unsalted almonds, yogurt, cheese and milk. We’ve been picnicking at the rest stops as we travel along.)

After nearly a week on the road, it was delightful to be in Paula’s house to relax. She treated us to a yummy dinner complete with the best peaches I’ve had in years and sweet corn. As I sat at dinner, my eyes wandered over to her refrigerator door which was adorned with notes and things to do. It reminded me again that we’re on the road without a home - I don’t have a refrigerator with notes and things to do. But I am looking forward to that normalcy returning to my life in Alaska.

This morning we were up early and were on the road by 8:00. I really feel like we’re organized and have a nice system in place. I have to say, it’s quite a feat - even more than I thought it would be - to be on the road for 25 days and be well-fed, well-rested, comfortable, with clean clothes (Thanks, Paula!) and a song in our hearts. It’s pretty easy to fall behind in any of those areas.

This morning, I spent about two hours planning and booking hotels for the next 4-5 days of our trip. Thank goodness for AAA - their guidebooks and maps have been invaluable. Two other resources have been great, too - 1,000 Places to See in the USA and DK Eyewitness USA. I go back and forth between the guidebooks and these books to determine our route.

Tonight we’ll stay in Kearney (pronounced Car-ney), Nebraska. There’s a fort there and also a train museum we might see if we arrive early. Interesting - I have done practically NO pleasure reading in the car. I’m much too interested in the scenery to read and that’s really saying something for me!

Off to Ames, Iowa

2008-07-13T04:40:00.000-07:00

July 12
Odometer at start-up this morning: 1214 miles (that might be about 1/4 of the trip, not sure...)

Big storm last night in big sky country (I know that’s Montana, but to me, this is also big sky country...). Lightning, thunder and this morning lots of floods near the hotel. Also, yet another tire problem - this time with the spare attached to the trailer. Robert spotted a bulge which meant we had to go down the road to a local tire store and replace it. Once again, we were blessed that they had the right size tire and that they were able to balance it. All within an hour.

We passed over the Mississippi which I expected to be bigger - maybe it is farther down - at a place called Quad Cities. There are two cities in Illinois and two cities in Davenport which comprise the quad.

By the way - we’ve been making great use out of the satellite radio. As well as having interesting music as we motor along, this morning we were also able to access the weather. Bad storms were brewing in Chicago and south, and even though the sky is threatening, we’ve only had a little rain.

We’re on our way to Ames, Iowa where we’ll stop and see my friend, Paula. She and I met at Camp Beaupre, a ballet camp in the Berkshires in 1976. We lost touch for about 20 years but then reconnected when we moved to Cape Cod. Originally from Boston, she’s happily liviing in Ames now.

Off the Road - with another FLAT!

2008-07-11T17:15:00.001-07:00

Just east of Ottawa, IL, the tire monitoring system registered that the right trailer tire was down to 8 pounds (from a high of 60...) We pulled off to the shoulder of a very busy, truck-laddened highway and set up shop. Robert and Gates got to work and put on the spare. It seems as though both flats were caused by faulty stems. Fortunately, there there was a truck/trailer repair shop right off the highway and they do have another tire. So they’ll change it and then we’ll head for the hotel, the pool, dinner and sleep.

Thank goodness for Central Time. It’s 4:30 our time but only 3:30 their time.

On The Road (but nothing like Jack Kerouac...)

2008-07-11T17:14:00.000-07:00

Taylor, MI - Peru, IL - 335 miles

We left earlyish this morning to drive to Peru, Illinois. The next few days will be heavy driving days in order to get out to Wyoming where we’ll stop at Fort Laramie. We’re making good progress, and I’m typing this as we drive. The Wi-Fi spots have been great - I’m learning that most gas stations subscribe to “lynksys” which can be accessed from their parking lot! All this wireless stuff is new to me, but I like it a lot.

Greenfield Village

2008-07-09T17:13:00.000-07:00

WOW! Greenfield Village is like nowhere I've ever been. We had originally planned to see the Village and the Ford Museum, but we changed our reservations to stay an extra day. We spent the whole day there - it was spectacular. I have some great photos but I can't seem to upload them on the wireless from the hotel - maybe tomorrow I'll have better luck. We saw the Wright Cycle Company and watched actors portraying the brothers. We also saw Edison's laboratory and saw a little skit with him. The skit with Henry Ford was great, too. There was also a 30 minutes Gershwin song and dance that rivaled Broadway...

Tomorrow we'll see the Rouge Auto Plant tour and tour the Henry Ford.

Through Canada to Michigan

2008-07-08T18:56:00.000-07:00

We crossed over the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara Falls after stopping to surprise a dental school friend of Robert's. Then it was driving and driving through Canada - very pretty with lots of fields but that was about it... until we got to Michigan where it started to rain. We got to the hotel just in time for dinner and a swim. Tomorrow we'll be up and at 'em early to have plenty of time for the Henry Ford Museum (they actually have the limousine where JFK was sitting on November 23, 1963...) and Greenfield Village.

I'm still working on how to easily get these photos on the website...

Niagara Falls

2008-07-07T18:26:00.000-07:00

Last night’s memorable moment - taking a swim in the hotel’s 4th floor outside pool. No one there except for the lifeguard, a social studies teacher in Rochester. She and I swam laps and talked about teaching, kids and the state of the world.

This morning we had a quick breakfast at the hotel and then set off. Little bit of a detour through Rochester’s less desirable areas to get to 490 West. About ten minutes along the highway we heard a drum, drum, drum from the left side of the trailer. Despite an expensive tire monitoring system, (and Robert had checked the tires this morning) we had a flat tire on the trailer. (After we pulled over, the tire monitor went off...)

Gates and Robert hopped to the rescue and changed the tire, digging through the trailer to find what they needed. A tough job in the baking sun. Despite the delay - I was happy that it happened in the daytime when we were all well rested and fed, there was plenty of room for us to pull over onto a field in order to change the tire. Plus, we had a spare and all the tools to change the tire.

About an hour later, we’re back on the road heading for a rest atop where I can use the WI-FI on the laptop to find a tire store.

Flash ahead to 9:27 PM - with the help of a local hotel front desk person, we were directed to a tire store that knew all about what we needed. It turns out that a crack in the air stem allowed all the air to come out quickly resulting in the flat.

Then it was on to Niagara Falls where we walked around the trails and visited each viewing spot for the falls. They were incredible but the heat was so impressive that I wished that the mist was blowing up and up so that it would have gotten us. The folks on the Cave Wind and Maid of the Mist tours who were getting soaked had the right idea!

I am writing this from the lobby of the Niagara Air Reserve Station - the hotel is one of the nicest I've ever stayed in - all for just $33!!!

Utica to Rochester

2008-07-06T16:04:00.000-07:00

We're off!!!! After pictures in our new t-shirts, we set off for Rochester at 11:30. First stop, the Strong Museum of Play. This museum has all kinds of memorabilia relating to toys. Even a Chatty Cathy doll - although, not the kind I remember - the one we saw was a little bigger. It was fun to see all kinds of toys from my childhood - a tin dollhouse, a Viewmaster, and a life-size Mr. Potato Head which we could decorate ourselves! We even had a try at hula hoops (see photo...). It was harder to do than I remember - why is that????

After dinner in the hotel, we're about to jump in the pool. It's in the 80's here, so that will be a great way to cool off.

Tomorrow - the Eastman Museum and Niagara Falls.

2008-07-05T09:31:00.000-07:00

D Minus 1!

The packers left at 8:30 PM last Thursday. Since then, we took a load of boxes up to Utica (Robert's parents' house), moved out of our house, moved into Temp. Quarters at the Base, moved out of Temp. Quarters and yesterday, on July 4th, drove off the Base, up Route 28, over the Bourne Bridge and away!

It has been a topsy-turvy ten days since I last wrote. I truly felt that after the packers left, then it would be all down hill. Everything was done, right? Well, sort of. But there was still so many last minute things to do that it felt really overwhelming. Also, because I've been so busy, I hadn't really had a chance to think about LEAVING. All those feelings flooded into my head after breakfast yesterday as we left the Galley for the last time. WAAAAAAA! It was awful. I was so sad. (Lips quivering, tears rolling down cheeks, pit in stomach sad.) I have some photos which I will post later (not of the lips quivering...) - I'm on a dial-up connection from Utica.

It took us nearly 8 hours to get to Utica. It's usually a six hour drive but we were each driving a van with Robert pulling the trailer, and I needed LOTS of breaks. Once we arrived, we had the gargantuan job of reorganizing the trailer and one van for the trip. The problem was that I had stuck things everywhere at the last minute - what a mess. So, we emptied both vans and the trailer - I wish I had taken a picture of the driveway with all our stuff spread out. The good news is that we accomplished it all in about 3 hours.

So - tomorrow is the real D Day. We head for Rochester and the Strong Museum of Play. I will try to post notes at night from the hotels. Hopefully, we'll have Internet connections. Thank you for all your emails and comments. I love hearing from you. Please keep us in your thoughts and prayers!

Box City

2008-06-25T12:55:00.000-07:00

Now we have 9 movers working very hard. Fortunately, it's a beautiful, cool day, so some of the work can be done outside. This move to Alaska is more complicated because everything must be wrapped. Then it gets put into crates and then the crates get put into a container. Next, everything is loaded onto a barge and sent on its way through the Panama Canal to Alaska! Let's hope there are no storms because sometimes the containers roll overboard! I won't think about that...

In the meantime, I've had some wonderful free time to work on redesigning my website which I recently discovered does not open well with browsers other than IE. There are some great new templates at Go Daddy, so I've been having fun working on it. I hope it will be up and running before we leave.

Packers, Part 2

2008-06-24T06:31:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we had two packers, today it's up to five. Two downstairs, three upstairs and the house is slowly turning into box city. They're doing a great job and I'm grateful for real professionals. As many times as we've done this (3), it's still disconcerting.

I have to say, though, I'm happy with how organized we are, except for a mini disaster this morning - no SUGAR! That might not sound catastrophic, but without sugar, I can't have coffee. And not that I'm addicted to the stuff, but I needed some this morning. Just one little, bitty cup. But it had to be sweetened, because without sugar, I can't stand the stuff. Fortunately, I unearthed the plastic container that I had filled before the packers arrived. (My memory of where it was was that I had last seen it on the counter, that same counter that was now empty. Meaning that it was already boxed...)

More later...

They're here!

2008-06-23T10:45:00.001-07:00

After an extremely hectic weekend of more sorting, more organizing and even more tossing, (including stabilizing the washer for moving at 11 PM last night...), the packers are finally here. Today is the first day that I've actually been able to sit still for more than 2 minutes... One of my biggest fears was that I'd turn around and want something and whoosh - it would have already been packed. But I think I've taken care of all of that and now I can relax a little bit and continue to plan our trip.

Isn't moving the most uprooting thing in the world? I've included some photos of the proof of packing to give you a sense of what's going on here.

Thanks so much for checking out this blog and for all the emails you've sent. I love receiving them and reading your comments. I feel like you're all coming along!

Packing

2008-06-21T17:04:00.000-07:00

Today we got serious. While Robert worked on the garage and basement, I attacked the study and bedroom. I transferred files from the filing cabinets to the boxes, cleaned out closets, purged drawers and sorted. I feel like I never want to buy another thing that will have to be moved. I feel like I'd like to toss out every non-essential so that it doesn't have to be packed and it doesn't have to be unpacked. By the way, someone once told me that you throw out an additional 50% of junk while you're unpacking. I know it's true because when we unpacked in NJ, I almost threw out yearbooks. I didn't, and I'm glad, but it was close!

Biking through Nickerson

2008-06-19T16:02:00.000-07:00

D-15! Which means departure in 15 days! I know I said I'd write every day, but that is just not happening, here. I am actually writing - I'm writing lists, and lists and lists. I'm crossing off lists and then recopying lists (yes, it's true...).

But today we played hookey and went biking at Nickerson. It was very tempting to stay home and organize, pack, make calls, sort, etc. but when the movers switched their preview appointment until tomorrow, we decided to put the bikes on the van and take off for Nickerson. I am so glad we did! We ended up biking further north along the rail trail than we usually do, and it was so pretty. We made the obligatory stop at the Hot Chocolate Sparrow for ice cream (and also for dark chocolate sponges, one of my favorites...). Then we biked on and on. I had hoped we would eventually reach the National Seashore, but I think you have to turn off for that and we went straight instead. As a result, we ended up at Arnold's Clam Shack, which after I read the newspaper articles they have framed inside, is one of Cape Cod tastiest Clam Shacks. And is it ever! I had hoped to have real light and crispy fried seafood when we first came to the Cape and I did find a couple of places that were good, but this place is GREAT. We ordered the shrimp and instead of the usual puny little pieces, we got jumbo shrimp lightly battered and fried. Yum!

Then back on the bikes for the return trip of about 9 miles. We are really beat, but really happy that we had our day.

And I'm happy that I took the time to write about it!

Off, off, off and then on?

2008-06-16T15:25:00.000-07:00

Today was a day for off, off, off. I spent the day making phone calls scheduling the turning off of the cable, the Internet, the electricity, the phone and the gas. I tried to turn on the electricity in Ketchikan. I tried three times to reach the folks at KPU but I never did. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to turn the lights on in Alaska.

18 more days! I'm going to try hard to write every day until we leave. I may not have any big news, but I am wildly checking things off my list. It's, once again, amazing, how much there is to do in order to move 3700 miles AND plan a driving trip across the country. I know it will all get done, it's just that I'd like it done now so I'm not up in the middle of the night writing lists...

Memorial Day Weekend

2008-05-23T13:54:00.000-07:00

Hi friends,

Wow - this was a lot of fun to put together. I hope you enjoy my pre-trip musings, periodic whines and progress reports.

It's almost dinner time on the Friday before Memorial Day weekend. It's a gorgeous day, and we're all looking forward to a great weekend. I can't help thinking about what next year at this time will be like? I love the Sandwich small-town Memorial Day Parade. Will Ketchikan have one, too? Will spring have sprung the way it has here? I've got lots of questions but not so many answers.